Puglia (Apulia)

We had planned a trip to Puglia before, and then came Covid… this time it worked out and here we are. First time and in love.

That’s how crossing Italy from North-West to South-East looks like. Olives (oil) and wheat (pasta) are essential elements in that regional production.

After an 8 hour road trip, we arrived in Puglia, a southern region forming the heel of Italy’s “boot”. It’s also called the “land of two” seas: the Adriatic Sea to the East & North and the Ionian Sea to the South. That explains that Puglia’s coastline is longer than any other mainland Italian region.

Puglia, that’s whitewashed hill towns, centuries-old farmland (olive trees, artichokes, tomatoes, eggplants) and hundreds of kilometers of Mediterranean coastline (including various kinds of seafood).

First stop: Bari – Capital City of Puglia – where traffic is a little crazy, Vespas rattle through the old town streets, where awnings are stretched over balconies like icing on the cake.

Lots going on in those little Old Town streets.

Is it already Christmas?
Italy is getting ready… (not only in Bari).

Just strolling through the labyrinth of alleys, jumping to the side to not get hit by a Vespa. Ciao, Bari!

That’s what balconies are for: drying the wash and pasta.

A late breakfast, cappuccino and pistachio cake, in a cafe which is selling tabacco and lottery at the same time.

In front of the houses, wooden tables are lined up where Italian nonnas shape the pasta dough into orecchiette, Baris local pasta.

The authentic ones are handmade by women of the old city district, where they offer them for sale on the thresholds of their homes in the arrow alleys.

Orecchiette are made of durum wheat semolina: the dough is shaped into little finger thick snakes that are cut unto nail-size pieces. These are then flattened with the knifes tip, and given the shape of a tiny ear (that’s the meaning of orecchiette) with the help of the two index fingers. The Bari Orecchiette are usually served with rabbit in a sauce, braciole in a sauce, or broccoli rabe.

The street where Italian nonnas make orecchiette.

Pasta tester? Controlling finances? A husband? Just chilling?

In addition to fresh pasta, you’ll also find a nice fruit and vegetable shop.

My idea: pick up a few tomatoes & herbs, and we’ll have all the ingredients for tonight’s pasta dinner. Hubby’s idea: let’s go out for dinner and enjoy “properly cooked” pasta dishes!

Thanks for the compliments on my cooking skills…

On the street or behind the curtain: fresh pasta being produced.

Orecchiette served with braciole (roulade) in a sauce – delicious, because „properly cooked“ 😉

Basilika San Nicola. The relics of Saint Nicholas are located here. The very same Saint Nicholas from whom the legend of Santa Claus 🎅 originates. No wonder, Bari is first getting ready for Christmas!

Let’s talk about wine. We found each other again: my old friend & absolute favorite red wine, Primitivo. Hmmmmm! Mama Mia! Happy and a little drunk.

The waiters are laughing about us: we ordered antipasti, a primi and a secondi, and a bottle of primitivo, of course. Good that we only have a couple of hundred meters to our apartment. Happy and a little drunk, again 🥰

Bari life is happening outdoors. Rain or shine.

Another speciality in Bari: Sgagliozze, fried polenta.

Love that one: Italian nonna on her balcony.

Aperitif options everywhere.
That’s Italy’s Dolce Vita ❤️

Bari was very nice. Time to move on to…

Google street Monopoli looks a bit like the game Monopoly. But both have nothing in common.

Passing Monopoli and getting ready for Alberobello, the home to “trulli,” stone huts with distinctive conical roofs.

I’m trulli in love with Alberobello 💕

Driving a little more south, all the way to the south of the “heel”. Oh mei. Found our little wild paradise for the next days.

No neighbors. Just the sea in front of us 💙

Arrived in the very south of Italy’s heel.

A simple stone house in a dream location, on the cliffs right next to a fjord. Anyone driving along the coastal road would not expect a house here – and yet it is here, nestled against the rocks. Wow! Wow! Wow! Breathtaking sea views. Maximum privacy – and a heated outdoor jacuzzi.

🥰 getting up early is absolutely worth it 😍

Marvelous 🌊

Another morning. 8am. Waking up to this. Wow.

Waking up to the sound of the waves. Fishing boats passing by. Espresso with an amazing sea view. Sun bathing. Reading. Sleeping. More espresso. And repeat. Life is good! It’s a pity how fast hours go by.